12v Power Supply

Around one-half to 1 ohm should work (a few foot of iron baling cable). Like I said my power systems class was in ’92 and I’m very rusty, additionally it’s mostly of the classes I sold my textbook back again at the end of the semester. And if you carry out build your own, I would test it first for a protracted time period using power resistors equal to the resistance of your load which are capable of handling the existing and measure voltage, current and heat of the parts, if your parts get too hot, depending on thier design they can enter a runaway thermal condition causing increasingly more current to stream until something burns up, this is excatly why a fuse is important, if the fuse blows you understand you designed it incorrect. Leaving it hooked up when driving to work (engine working) provides full charge, pretty much. If the PS has a present meter (or use any available meter) you can monitor the current and add a low value current limiting resistor if it at first exceeds the PS limits. You can go to considerably with an equalization charge and it will be creates a lot of hydrogen, quite flammable. As the battery pack charges it’s voltage will rise towards 13.8V and it’s current will drop towards No. Hope this answers a few of your questions, Paul I still suggest getting an off the shelf part to get this done if you don’t really can’t afford to do so. You can even place several regulator in parallel to get higher currents (you could take 2 12V/20Amp regulators and get 12V/40Amp). Years ago I drove an ‘engine inside’ Dodge truck. Performing AC->DC finds V(Avg) in ideal conversion, but all electric systems have a loss (mainly through temperature dissapation).

This means to get a good clean 12V DC with plenty of current, your heading to have to feed it with 15V DC or more. A regulator requires some DC voltage in and produces a lesser DC voltage which is clean and stable and very close to the specified Vout. Accounting for loss transformation of the 12V(RMS) could easily get you in the ballpark of 12V DC, with respect to the quality of the transformer, rectifier bridge and the capacitors. And be certain to place a proper fuse or GFI circuit and proper warmth dissipation actions. Will anybody know where i can get an inexpensive 120->12 transformer, that coud deal with 40A? Thank you, Boris. The second series is the result after you have used a sizable capacitor to carefully turn the recitfied power into DC, as you can plainly see it is lower than the amplitude of the recitifed power, it is because the capacitor is taking the integral of the recified power, effectively dumping the power above the range in to the dips below the series.

If you connect a 12V 1A power supply to it, the supply will drive 1A of current into the electric battery. And whether it’s possible, how would I be safe against overcharging? Or is that a good risk? And one last question. Can I have a normal 12V power supply, take off the end, and hook up the + and – cables to the + and – poles of the electric battery to charge it up? The power supply is 12V 1A from a vintage router I used to have. IcyBreeze assumes no responsibility for any incident, injury, death, loss, or other state related to or resulting from the use of this product. In no event shall IcyBreeze be liable for incidental or consequential problems associated with or caused by the use of this product or some of its parts or accessories. The boards were having problems this morning and although my post was here, now it isn’t. And that’s just a float voltage, which means it would have a very long time to charge at that voltage.

If you connect a 12V 1A power supply to it, the supply will push 1A of current in to the battery.

If the voltage is higher than 14V then your battery begins releasing Hydrogen. After a few hours I placed the switch back the 12 volt position and remaining it finish charging. When I tried to charge the electric battery, the amp meter would peg and the circuit breaker would trip. IcyBreeze products and accessories are guaranteed against manufacturing flaws for 12 months from the original time of purchase, excluding the battery pack which has a 90 day guarantee. So to overcome this occasionally you push them or overcharge these to get all the cells equalized one to the other again. In my case I have a vent that will go directly outdoors and runs whenever the battery pack voltage gets high (13.8+). Yet another way to think of it is that a 12v lead acid solution battery is 6 2v cells, plus they really can only be charged in series. Those that know rechargeable batteries pretty much, know it is not preferable to charge cells in series. The 110-Volt Adapter will not charge your battery pack, the battery pack can only be charged with the battery pack charger provided with the unit at the time of purchase. I turned the electric battery voltage select change to 6 volts and could charge the battery pack. Aside from such repair or replacing, the sale, handling or other handling of the product is without warranty, condition or other liability even though the defect or reduction may be triggered by carelessness or other fault. The 110-Volt Power Adapter is designed to connect into standard US wall structure receptacles and run your IcyBreeze consistently. IcyBreezes sole obligation in the event of such defects during this period is to repair or replace the faulty item with a equivalent item at IcyBreezes singular discretion. Harm resulting from use, accident, or normal deterioration is not covered by this or any warranty. In the pinch you will get lots of ways to charge a battery pack, once billed a 28V chopper battery pack by hooking two vehicles in series.

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